Perming is a chemical process used to change the shape of hair permanently.
The hair is sectioned and wrapped with curling rods. The two most common types of rods are straight and concave; each giving a different curl effect.
The chemical phase causes the permanent wave or curl.
Perming is a three step chemical process:
- 1. Softening
- 2. Moulding
- 3. Fixing
Softening: Stage one the hair is softened by the perm lotion
Moulding: Stage two the lotion causes the hair to take a new shape according to the perm rods around which the hair is wound.
Fixing: Stage three the neutraliser reforms the hair into its new shape.
Perm rods are available in many different sizes. They are color coded to easily recognise the size you need. The smaller the perm rod, the smaller and tighter the curl. A medium rod for medium curls and large perm rods for bigger, softer waves.
The perming process breaks the bonds within the hair structure. This softening effect allows the hair to take on the new shape. This softening and moulding is the most crucial stage of the perming process. If the processing time is too short the hair will not take on the new shape. And if the processing time is too long, the bonding will totally break down the hair and dissolve the hair, leaving it damage, dry, brittle and frizzy. It is therefore important to follow manufacturer directions.
Perm Timing
The length of time the perm lotion is left on depends on:
Manufacturer’s Instructions. Always read instructions. If the hair is not processed long enough the bonds will re-join and the hair may be left weak and the hair will be straight. And if the hair is processed too long, the hair will be frizzy, damage and the hair will easily break.
The Porosity of the Hair. The more porous the hair the quicker the perming process.
The Room Temperature – heat speeds up the chemical reaction, so warmer weather and a heated room and a hood dryer will speed up the process.
Body Heat. If the head is covered the perm will process quicker.
The Strength of the Perm Lotion. Alkaline Perms process quicker than acid perms.
The PH level of the perm lotion. The higher the PH level the quicker the perming process is activated.
Monitor Perm Development. Hair condition, heat and texture all play a role in the development time. Set a timer and check the development. After sufficient development time, carefully unwind a perm rod on either side of the head. Gently push the rod toward the scalp to check whether an “S” shape has developed.
The neutralising process will stop any further development of the perm lotion. The neutraliser bonds the hair into the new curled shaped.
© Belinda Meyer publishes information for the Salon and Spa industry. She offers helpful information relating to health, beauty therapy, spa treatments, skin care, hair and more. Want to know more? Visit http://www.salonprofit.net
