Sunless tanning (also known as spray tanning, self or fake tanning) Sunless tanning refers to the application of chemicals to the skin to produce an effect similar in appearance to a more traditional suntan. The practice of UV-free tanning rose after links made by health authorities since the 1960s between skin cancer and exposure to the sun and other alternatives sun tanning methods, such as the use of a sunbed or tanning bed.
DHA-based products
The most effective sunless tanning involves the use of lotions and sprays that contain dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as the active ingredient. DHA is not a dye, stain or paint, but causes a chemical reaction with the amino acids in the dead layer on the skin surfaceThis is similar to a reaction well known to food chemists called the Maillard reaction. This refers to the browning process during food manufacturing and storage. It does not involve skin pigmentation nor does it require exposure to ultraviolet light to initiate the color change. The effect is temporary and will fade gradually over 3 to 10 days.
Some products use erythrulose combined with DHA. Erythrulose works identically to DHA on the skin surface, but develops more slowly. The two chemicals used together may produce a longer lasting sunless tan.
Dihydroxyacetone or erythrulose may cause contact dermatitis. First time users of sunless tanning products are advised to apply the product to a small patch of skin and wait 24 hours before a full body application.
These products can be applied at home, in the form of gels, lotions, mousses, sprays and wipes. Best results are obtained when applied to clean, dry skin. Bathing and swimming should be avoided until product is fully absorbed, which varies from one to six hours. More DHA is absorbed by the thicker skin on the hands and feet, so those areas should be skipped or cleaned immediately after application.
Tanning lotions can be classified as bronzers, accelerators, and tingling lotions. Tingling lotions refer to indoor tanning lotion accelerators and maximizers that produce a tingling sensation when they are applied. It is believed that the tingle factor increases blood flow to the upper layers of the skin which brings more oxygen and affects melanin. This tingling sensation will vary depending on the skin type from mild to very strong. Professional spraytans applications are available from spas, salons and gymnasiums by both hand held sprayer and in the form of sunless or UV-Free spray booths. The enclosed booth, which resembles an enclosed shower stall, sprays the sunless tanning solution over the entire body.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) states when using DHA-containing products as an all-over spray or mist in a commercial spray "tanning" booth, it may be difficult to avoid exposure in a manner for which DHA is not approved, including the area of the eyes, lips, or mucous membrane, or even internally. DHA is not approved by the FDA for inhalation.
Consequently, FDA advises asking the following questions when considering commercial facilities where DHA is applied by spraying or misting:
"Are consumers protected from exposure in the entire area of the eyes, in addition to the eyes themselves? Are consumers protected from exposure on the lips and all parts of the body covered by mucous membrane? Are consumers protected from internal exposure caused by inhaling or ingesting the product?
If the answer to any of these questions is "no," the consumer is not protected from the unapproved use of this color additive. Consumers should request measures to protect their eyes and mucous membranes and prevent inhalation."
Airbrush spraytans are applied by professional technicians using specialized equipment including Laser guided spray guns designed for applying self tanning sprays, such as an airbrush, LVLP spraygun, and HVLP spraygun equipment types. The technician hand sprays the client from head to toe with a gentle solution misting. This custom spraying using overspray control systems is controlled and following FDA guidelines is simple. The portability of the equipment allows spray tanning services in a large variety of places, from beach kiosks and malls to in home application.
DHA has been approved for cosmetic use by the FDA, Health Canada and most of the EU member nations It is considered nontoxic and noncarcinogenic. Because DHA does not use the skin's melanocytes to make the skin a tan color, it is recommended as a cosmetic disguising cover for vitiligo patients. DHA based sunless tanning has been recommended by the Skin Cancer Organization, the American Academy of Dermatology, the American Cancer Society and the American Medical Association.
Tyrosine-based products
Although gels, lotions or sprays that contain DHA are said to be the most reliable and useful, there are other types of products on the market. Tanning accelerators—lotions or pills that usually contain the amino acid tyrosine -- claim that they stimulate and increase melanin formation, thereby accelerating the tanning process. These are used in conjunction with UV exposure. At this time, there is no scientific data available to support these claims.
Canthaxanthin-based products
Another sunless-tanning product is a tanning pill that contains canthaxanthin, which is most commonly used as a color additive in certain foods. Although the FDA has approved the use of canthaxanthin in food, it does not approve its use as a tanning agent. When used as a color additive, only very small amounts of canthaxanthin are necessary. As a tanning agent, however, much larger quantities are used. After canthaxanthin is consumed, it is deposited throughout the body, including in the layer of fat below the skin, which turns an orange-brown color. These types of tanning pills have been linked to various side effects, including hepatitis and canthaxanthin retinopathy, a condition in which yellow deposits form in the retina of the eye. Other side effects including damage to the digestive system and skin surface have also been noted. The FDA withdrew approval for use of canthaxanthin as a tanning agent, and has issued warnings concerning its use.
Melanotan hormone
Afamelanotide, a synthetic melanocyte-stimulating hormone analog, which induces melanogenesis through activation of the melanocortin 1 receptor, is another alternative on the horizon. A 1991 clinical Investigational new drug trial conducted at the Department of Internal Medicine, University of Arizona Health Sciences Center with afamelanotide (then known by its amino acid formula [Nle4, D-Phe7] (NDP)-alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone) with 28, "healthy white men" who used a, "high-potency sunscreen during the trial" and concluded, "Human skin darkens as a response to a synthetic melanotropin given by subcutaneous injection. Skin tanning appears possible without potentially harmful exposure to ultraviolet radiation."
Afamelanotide in a subcutaneous implant form is currently undergoing clinical trials and being developed by a company in Australia.
Temporary bronzers
Bronzers are a temporary sunless tanning or bronzing option. These come in powders, sprays, mousse, gels, lotions and moisturizers. Once applied, they create a tan that can easily be removed with soap and water. Like make-up, these products tint or stain your skin only until they are washed off.
They are often used for a "one-day" only tan, or to complement a DHA based sunless tan. Many formulations are available, and some have limited sweat or light water resistance. Most will create some light but visible rub-off onto snug clothing. Therefore they should not be applied under clothing, or where fabric and skin edges meet. Dark clothing will prevent the rub-off from being noticeable. While, these products are much more safe than tanning beds, the color produced can sometimes look orangey and splotchy if applied incorrectly.
A recent trend is that of lotions or moisturisers containing a gradual tanning agent. A slight increase in color is usually observable after the first use, but color will continue to darken the more the product is used.
Air Brush tanning is a spray on tan done by a professional. It can last five to ten days fading with every shower. It is used for special occasions or to get a quick dark tan. At-home airbrush tanning kits and aerosol mists are also now available.
Risks
Most sunless tanning products do not contain sunscreen, therefore, they do not provide any protection against ultraviolet rays when the person is outdoors. To offer protection against UV rays the tanner should contain an SPF. The ingredients known to offer appropriate protection are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone.
Risks of inhaling or ingesting DHA are not known. People are advised to close their eyes or protect them with goggles and to hold their breath or wear nose plugs while they have a spray-on tanning applied.
Many self tanners use chemical fragrances which may cause skin allergies or may trigger asthma. Furthermore, some of them contain parabens. Parabens are preservatives that can affect the endocrine system.
Tanners can stain clothes. It is therefore important to look for fast drying formulas and wait around 10 to 15 minutes for the product to dry before dressing.
For the 24 hours after self-tanner (containing high DHA levels, ~5%) is applied, the skin is especially susceptible to free-radical damage from sunlight, according to a 2007 study led by Katinka Jung of the Gematria Test Lab in Berlin. Forty minutes after the researchers treated skin samples with high levels of DHA they found that more than 180 percent additional free radicals formed during sun exposure compared with untreated skin.
References:
1. Tingling. Retrieved 2010-07-05.
2. FDA Comments on Sunless Tanners and Bronzers
3. Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Volume 1, §73.1150 Listing of color additives exempt from certification
4. US FDA/CFSAN - Tanning Pills
5. Induction of skin tanning by subcutaneous administration of a potent synthetic melanotropin. Vol. 266 No. 19, November 20, 1991. Journal of the American Medical Association. 1991. Retrieved 2008-10-13.
6. The Truths About Tanners. Retrieved 2010-07-05.
7. Sunless tanning: A safe alternative to sunbathing. Retrieved 2010-07-05.
8. Choose a Natural Self-tanner. Retrieved 2010-07-05.
9. K Jung, M Seifert, Th Herrling, J Fuchs "UV-generated free radicals (FR) in skin: Their prevention by sunscreens and their induction by self-tanning agents." Spectrochim Acta A Mol Biomol Spectrosc. 2008 May;69(5):1423-8. Epub 2007 Oct 10
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