Masks are chosen according to skin type and intended purpose. A mask may be used to cleanse or refine the skin, minimise pores, remove excess oiliness, or to enhance the penetration of active ingredients and feed the skin. A mask is applied after the skin has been deep cleaned with a cleanser and exfoliation product. The mask is thinly applied with an applicator brush or finger tips.

A Variety of Masks is available:

• Clay and Mud Masks
• Non-setting Gel, paste or Cream Masks (Hydrating and Nourishing)
• Phytotherapy Masks (fruit, plant and herb based)
• Peel-off Masks
• Thermal Masks
• Warm oil and Paraffin Masks
• Biological Emulsion Mask (active ingredients such as liposomes, nanoparticles)
• Infra-red Specialist Mask

Masks Effects and Benefits

• * The effects and action are dependent on the Mask formulation.
• * Deep cleansing
• * Refining and pore minimising
• * Stabilise the skins PH level
• * Astringent and anti-bacterial effects
• * Soothe and calm to reduce irritation
• * Hydrate and Moisturise (water)
• * Feed and Nourish (oil)
• * Increased cellular activity
• * Remove excess oiliness
• * Brighten skin tone
• * Refresh the skin

Mask Application

Directly after cleansing and exfoliation (scrub) the skin is dried and the mask is applied.

With an applicator brush or fingertips the mask is applied to the neck. Then moving up onto the face starting at the jawline applied from the centre of the face outwards. Apply to nose, cheeks and forehead.

Avoid the lips, nostrils brows and eye area.

Two masks may be applied to a combination skin.

Tell the client about any expected reaction, such as tightening of the mask, tingling etc. Explain the  purpose of the mask and the beneficial effects of the mask.

Apply eye gel or eye mask and eye pads and allow the client to rest for 10 to 20 minutes while the mask is activated.

Tell the client when you are going to remove the mask. Remove the eye pads. Apply a warm compress to pre-moisten and gently assist in removing the mask. Damp sponges and cottonwool will remove the remaining mask.

Apply toner and moisturiser.

• *Note* Specialist mask may require gauze or ampoule application prior to application. Active ingredients may need to be blended just before application. * Always read manufacturer’s directions for mask application. 

How to Blend a Clay Mask

Use clay which is appropriate for the specific skin type. As a rough guide yellow clay for oily skin, green clay for dry skin, pink clay for sensitive skin, red clay for mature skin.

To activate the minerals in clay a nutritive wetting agent is required.

Popular Active wetting agents:

Nourishing Oils such as jojoba, grape seed, evening primrose, emu, avocado or apricot kernel.

Floral waters or hydrosol such as Rose water, orange, neroli or witch hazel

Humectant (preserves the moisture or water content of the skin) such as glycerol/glycerine, lactic acid. 

Peel-Off Mask

They are applied to the skin in liquid form, allowed to dry, and then peeled off. As they dry, the liquid sets into a flexible “second skin” with a soft latex rubbery feel and appearance. The mask bonds with dulling dead skin, dirt, and sebum. A peel-off mask helps to unclog pores and remove blackheads. Peel-off masks give a luster and luminosity to the skin. Peel-off mask may be ready to use, or may require blending with water to form a paste. There are a variety of peel-off masks available. They are often used for pigmentation, whitening and blackhead removal and to slough away dead skin cells. 

Infra-red Warm Oil Specialist Masks

Mature and Dry skin can benefit from warm oil Mask using infra-red rays. The heat helps with the deep penetration of the oil and the therapeutic effect of the infra-red heat stimulates skin regeneration. The skin has the ability to absorb infrared light and use it as a source of energy to stimulate cellular regeneration. It accelerates blood circulation, increases the oxygen supply and stimulates
the normal cell production.

After cleansing and exfoliation, warm facial oil is applied to the neck and face with gauze which has been soaked in the oil.

The infrared rays are directed at the face usually between 50cm and 1 m (18in-3feet) according to the sensitivity of the lamp and the sensitivity of the skin. The light emission is in position for 10 – 20 minutes.

The gauze is removed and the excess oil is massaged into the skin. Any remaining oil is blotted off with a tissue. A mild toner is sprayed onto the skin. Warn the client to expect a cool mist of toner. Apply moisturiser.

© Belinda Meyer publishes information for the Salon and Spa industry. She offers helpful information relating to health, beauty therapy, spa treatments, skin care, hair and more. Want to know more? Visit www.salonprofit.net

Which are your favourite Mask/Masks? Leave your comments below.