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Cosmeceuticals represent the fusion of cosmetics and pharmeceuticals containing ingredients that have medical or drug-like benefits and produce a biological effect on the skin such as reducing wrinkles and plumping the skin. Examples of products typically labeled as cosmeceuticals include anti-aging creams and moisturizers. Dermatological research suggests that the bioactive ingredients used in cosmeceuticals do indeed have benefits beyond the traditional moisturizer.

Barrie Finnin, a professor at Monash University's college of pharmacy in Melbourne, and PhD student Anita Schneider, recently tested a new wrinkle cure. Twice daily, 20 male and female volunteers applied a liquid containing Myoxinol, a patented extract of okra (Hibiscus esculentus) seed, to one side of their faces. On the other side they applied a similar liquid without Myoxinol. Every week for a month their wrinkles were tested by self-assessment, photography and the size of depressions

made in silicon moulds. The results were impressive. After a month the depth and number of wrinkles on the Myoxinol-treated side were reduced by approximately 27 per cent.

The active ingredients in any skin care formula are those ingredients that actually serve a purpose relating to skin care. Typically cosmeceutical formulas will include several ingredients to make a cream or scrub, and only one or two active ingredients.

Commonly used Active Ingredients in Cosmecautical Formulations:

• Vitamins A, C ,E

• Botanical extracts

• Marine extracts

• Proteins

• Retinoids

• Enzymes

• Hydroxy Acids

• Beta Carotene

• Niacinamide (B3)

• Pycnogenol

• Co-enzyme Q10

• Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matryxl)

• Polyphenols

• Alpha lipoic acid

• Copper Peptides

• Idebenone

• DMAE

• Carnosine

• Magnesium

• Green tea

• Beta-glucan

• Hyaluronic acid

• Peptides

Anna Ibbotson, an Oxford-based chemicals and materials industry manager at Kline, the consultancy, notes that of all the personal care segments in the market, cosmeceuticals has enjoyed the strongest growth. Mintel, the market research company, predicts continued robust growth in the Cosmeceuticals category, with sales growing by 20 per cent up to 2013.

There are thousands of topical skin rejuvenation treatments on the market, from wrinkle creams to eye serums to lifting gels. An optimal skin care product should contain one or more active ingredients to be an effective concentration.

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